Anne Gros calls her share of this parcel in Clos Vougeot Maupertui—her cousin Michel spells it “Maupertuis.” Such are the complications of Burgundy. But this wine is anything but a confusion: It's a powerful, beautifully constructed wine, everything in its place—fruit, tannins and smoky wood. This justifies the sometimes questionable place of Clos Vougeot among the Grand Crus.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.