A funky whiff of yeast has to blow off before wonderfully pure orange zest notes appear. The palate has a wonderful richness of texture, something earthy with a pithy, beautiful grip. The flavors are still taut, for now (just zesty aromatic orange peel) but much more still hides and sleeps below the surface. This is powerful and concentrated, with a lovely and enduring backbone of freshness. This needs bottle age to come into its own. The finish is fresh, clean and lasting. Drink 2020–2037.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.