Made from 60-year-old vines, evidenced by its concentration and serious ageability. It is structured, firm and relatively dry at this young stage. It's a wine that needs at least 5 years. Today, if you do open a bottle, watch for the mineral, stony character that pushes the fruit and demands attention.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.