This wine has both great richness and a cool, stylish side. It's structured, with a strong streak of minerality as well as as spice and pepper. It has a cool, restrained feel at the moment, waiting for the time to burst out with its complex structure. Hold at least until 2017.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.