A shy, just about citrus-scented nose takes a little air to be woken up before releasing a strikingly pure note of ripe lemon. The palate has the same clear lemon purity but has a rich fluid texture of ripeness and concentration—a wonderful interplay of fruit richness and taut freshness that creates tension and poise. While the palate is completely dry, the lemon depth attains the richness of lemon oil and candied zest. The tanginess lingers long on the pure finish. This is lovely and pure now, but bottle age will make it beguiling. Drink 2017–2037.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.