This is a steely wine, crisp and very textured. Lemon zest and acidity are given structure by the mineral character and by the touches of wood. It's a wine with a future, so drink from 2016.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.