This rich botrytized wine is certainly sweet. But the intense dry botrytis character is much more evident, with an edge of bitter honey, crushed brown sugar and tight, taut acidity. Put all this down to youth, because this potentially delicious wine needs aging for at least another five years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.