The label is fabulous, a 19th-century design that has survived. The wine is maybe less unusual, but is certainly finely made, with perfumed dusty tannins, sweet fruit and solid wood flavors. This is a wine that will certainly last for 10 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.