Initial animal, rustic aromas blow away after a few minutes. On the palate, pure fruits are dominant, just hinting at some of the typical 2004 pepper character. It's a spicy, complex wine, with excellent acidity right through the finish, and always firm.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.