Although this wine is very firm and closed at the outset, it opens—and keeps opening in the mouth—to offer great fruit flavors. It is finely balanced, very pure, combining an ethereal character with the proper feet-in-the-soil taste of great Pinot Noir. Age for 20 years, if you can bear to wait.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.