Smoky aromas set the scene for a complex, fascinating wine. Like so many 2004s, it is striking for the purity of its fruit. And if there is a hint of green in the tannins, this certainly doesn't do the wine any harm. It's more that it shows how much time it needs to mature. Aftertaste is fresh.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.