From an average red vintage in the Loire, this shows a tight, almost stalky character, its spice and fruitcake flavors cut with dry tannins and just an edge of green pepper. Not for aging, drink this year.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.