The Quarts de Chaume are four ridges that jut out into the Layon valley, subject to botrytis because of the mists that come from the valley floor. This fine example is smooth, opulent and unctuous in character, a richly sweet wine. It is full of noble rot while also exhibiting the all-important acidity. Honey, ripe peaches, pineapple are still prominent. Give it 5–7 years. Screwcap.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.