Definitely wood-aged, this seriously toasty wine seems to have lost its fruit along the way. It gives a hard and tough character that is partly redeemed by juicy acidity at the end.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.