This is old-style winemaking, but in the best sense. It is big, dominated at this stage by tannins. The fruit is dark, brooding and intense. It has layers of wood (of which 20 percent was new), while the acidity still needs to soften out. This will age, maybe 10-12 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.