The wine tastes from the center outwards, the reverse of peeling fruit. It leads from the rich fruit that is at the heart and goes outwards towards tannins, new wood and spice. It all comes together on the finish. This is a wine of importance and stature.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.