This will need years to develop fully—15 to 20 years probably. For now, it is firmly tannic, very dry and powerful, with juicy fruit and acidity somewhere in there. The elements are not yet knitted together. When they are, this will be a stupendous wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.