Taut and mineral, this is currently a wine that is waiting to reveal its power and majesty. The fruit is on a tight rein of acidity, which only slowly opens up to show mango, pineapple, crisp citrus, layers of toast and a mouth-enveloping richness. Age for at least five years, preferably 10.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.