The wine is currently closed up, not offering huge flavors. So it is a question of feeling the richness, the steely edge and the yellow fruits. It is certainly very dense, needing several years' aging, finishing with vanilla creaminess.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.