Earthy and initially animal, this wine lacks freshness. The tannins are important here, while the fruit only appears after the wine has been in the mouth for several moments. Being charitable, this is young; being less so, it is badly old-fashioned.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.