Peach and tangerine unite to create an utterly seductive nose: luscious juicy flesh is defined by aromatic spice and zestiness. These opposites play off each other and create something that is alive and vigorous, joyful and precious. There is concentration and poise, structure and texture, but none of this concerns the hedonistic forces at play. They just want to express their careless exuberance. There is something defiant about this dry concentrated wine. Perhaps it is a welcome and encouraging counterweight to so much sadness in the world.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.