That Laurence Faller is able to conjure wonders from her family's great estate is an incontrovertible fact. But if further proof were needed, here it is in the shape of a fabulous Riesling from a small parcel of vines. It has enormous fruit, which is so pure, so steely and rich at the same time. It has hedgerow fruits, packing in behind finesse and elegance, with just the right touch of acidity. Give it 10 years at least.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.