This is, quite simply, great Riesling. It has all the subtlety that the grape can produce, as well as a sense of longevity. There's an intensity of fruit—apples and citrus—that cuts through the texture, leaving a beautiful, lingering aftertaste. Still young, drink from 2016.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.