There should be more Muscat planted in Alsace if this fine wine is anything to go by. It brings out all the ethereal perfume of the grape, offering a ripe character while remaining delicate and elegant. The acidity lightens the final tone.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.