With its rich, almost spicy character, this revels in a tight, steely core. It is wine under tension, shot through with acidity, grapefruit and with a youthful edge. Age for 5–6 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.