Smoke and the merest, tantalizing whiff of toffee apple can be discerned on the nose. Fragrant herbs—think chervil and yarrow—also make an appearance. The palate is dry but brims with ripe lemon oil and fresh lemon fruit. This is streamlined and impactful, with a commanding, overarching freshness that only enforces the inherent power of this site more. For now this is tightly wound and still closed, majoring on its ample lemon charm but this needs bottle age to let the myriad notes promised on the nose unfold on the palate. Drink 2022–2040.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.