A touch of flinty reduction still hangs over the nose, subduing the varietal aromas. But this is only a sign of youth, as is the residual carbon dioxide on the palate. While very young, this holds all it needs for a promising future: A bright core of juicy fruit—think tangerine, tart red apple and ripe yellow pear—as well as the vividly clean and racy freshness of bright lemon. This is concentrated and rather powerful, rapier-like in its cleansing, dry finish but also generous on its fruity midpalate. This is confident and self-assured and stands tall with its powerful structure and body. Leave this to calm down and become itself. Drink 2018–2037.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.