Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2015 Clos Häuserer Riesling (Alsace)

A touch of flinty funk hovers on the nose. The palate at first unfurls in a grapefruity zesty texture on which riper notions of pear and peach, quince and smoke are displayed. The merest touch of residual sweetness lends a baroque sheen to this tableau, always countered by spicy zesty freshness while being so seductive. The dry whistle-clean finish still tingles with that aromatic fruit of the concentrated midpalate. A great expression of the great 2015 vintage: rich but streamlined, seductive but contained and therefore all the more intriguing. Drink now through 2035. Anne Krebiehl MW

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