Earth, smoke and lifted lemon peel create a very alluring, almost primal aroma. The palate comes in with gentle, subdued sweetness, boosting ripe pear notes before revealing fir honey bitterness and tangy grapefruit zest. A warm sandalwood-spiced core is still tightly closed, holding further stores of fruit and spice and signalling lasting power and barely tamed energy. While aromas are enticing now this deserves cellaring to come into its own. There is much drive and a dynamic citrus freshness wills you to sip more. This draws you in dangerously. The finish is dry and totally enticing. Drink 2020–2040.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.