Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2018 Clos Saint Urbain Rangen de Thann Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace)

Initial whiffs of flint, apple and smoke dissipate, leaving this wine with a shy, closed nose. The palate still carries residual carbon dioxide that gives a little spritz but all that is just window dressing for a powerful and concentrated core. Yes, there is concentrated lemon, both peel and pith, but a stony expanse underneath makes this profound, smoky and compelling. The finish is bone dry, bracing and racy. Lemon echoes long, carrying stony heat in its cooling breeze. Anne Krebiehl MW

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