The parcel called La Mission in the heart of the Mercurey vineyards is wholly owned by the Devillard family, so they call it a monopoly. It is a wine that effortlessly balances tangerine and lemon flavors with ripe spiced peaches and a tight mineral texture. The wine is still young, still developing, so wait until 2018.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.