While most varietal character is gone, this wine does show an explosion of ripe, honeyed sweetness, with a rich, liquorous texture. There is spice, bergamot, dried apricot in a smooth and opulent coating.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.