This is blockbuster Pinot Gris, a big wine in all senses. It has weight, superrich fruit and wonderful spice. While it's superficially opulent, it also has great depth, bringing out the terroir of the Spiegel vineyard and allowing the flashy spice to become more sophisticated as it the wine ages. Drink now for its immediate attraction, but really wait until 2018.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.