The wine tastes old before its years. It has a leathery character and prominent acidity rather than fruit. It has interest, with its dried fruits and tannins that are just on the point of drying out. Drink now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.