Donum 2012 Ten Oaks Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

From an estate-farmed property in the Russian River, this otherwise Carneros-based producer shows it can handle different conditions with aplomb, taking its foot off the pedal a touch in terms of power and concentration in this wine. Floral, soft and silky, it remains complex in red and black berry, with handfuls of truffled earth. Virginie Boone

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