Dopff & Irion 2003 Grand Cru Vorbourg Tokay Pinot Gris (Alsace)

Now owned by the Pfaffenheim cooperative, this old, established négociant, makes wines that are correct rather than exciting. This wine is fresh, clean and finely balanced. But it misses the tremor of excitement that should come from a Grand Cru vineyard. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Roger Voss

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