Dr. Loosen is one of the great estates of Germany, able to produce wonderfully expressive wines. Here is a hugely sweet wine, delicate and fresh, with flavors of maple syrup and mangoes. Enormously complex wine in flavor, but there is nothing—a mere 6.5%—in alcohol. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.