If the components meld more harmoniously with age, this rating may seem stingy, but for now there's a disconnect between the sweet flavors of baked pineapple and brown sugar and the hard, ungenerous mouthfeel. Perhaps it's just going though a tough stage in its evolution? —J.C.
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Czerwinski has been a wine journalist, editor and taster for over a decade and is a regular wine panelist, speaker and educator for events and organizations worldwide.