There are excellent savory qualities to this bottling, with white pepper, charred lamb, soy and pine resin adding much intrigue to the black currant fruit. The umami character is strong on the sip, with beef jerky, black pepper and wild mushroom broth flavors, but there is also some tangy fruit as well as upright tannins that will keep this wine singing for years. Drink now–2028.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.