Taking his practice of bottling with as little sulfur as possible to its logical conclusion, André Drappier has bottled this wine with no sulfur at all. It's a brave wine, and one where the risk is justified. It is full, very pure in the mouth, full of delicious lemon zest and grapefruit, but rounded out considerably, the fruit right up there. Drink now, is Drappier's advice—not hard to take.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.