Dusted Valley 2004 Barrel Thief Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley (WA))

Past vintages of Barrel Thief have been red blends, but in 2004 it's labeled Cabernet Sauvignon. The rest of the blend is Cab Franc and Merlot, so the Thief has gone a bit upscale, with visions of Bordeaux dancing in its head. Screwcapped and high-toned, there's nothing shy about this wine. It hits you head-on, dumps its plain fruit flavors and runs off, leaving a bit of volatile heat in the back of your mouth. Paul Gregutt

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