Run today by Carol Duval, one of the Champagne "widows" who seem to appear at critical moments in the history of Champagne houses, the quality of Duval-Leroy gets better every year. The fruit of this nonvintage wine is dominated by Chardonnay, pure, fresh and crisp, with lovely refreshing acidity at the end.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.