Ebner-Ebenauer 2016 Alte Reben Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich)

This is restrained, giving away just a bit of lemon zestiness before a more herbal touch of celery salt appears. On the surface, the fluid palate is all about easygoing pear fruit, but there is a deeper layer that has yet to wake up. It promises salt and spice—the edges of tingling white pepper are proof. Anne Krebiehl MW

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