Ebner-Ebenauer 2018 Sauberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich)

Salty, sage-scented yeast is apparent on the nose but comes into its own on the concentrated, toned palate. Here it unpacks its textured savoriness that is interspersed with ripe Mirabelle plum and juicy pear. Yet there is a counterweight of lovely, balancing freshness. The finish is long with saltiness and zest. Anne Krebiehl MW

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