This smells lightly of barnyard, what the French elegantly call goût de merde character. Firm and poised between sweet berry fruit and earthy funk, it fills in the back end with graphite and hints of gravel. Flavors are complex but overall this feels a little light, especially in the finish.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.