Bright, expressive, fleshy—all words that came up again and again describing this wine's fruit, from nose to finish. The core is mostly blackberry, with mixed plums and a dash of oak; it's medium-full, mouthfilling but not huge. Finsihes with some chewy tannins, and an almost beefy flavor. Perhaps too big to fully appreciate now; best drunk from 2005. —D.M.