Both the golden color and the advanced nose signal a mature wine. The nose has a lifted quality that references white sultanas, dried pineapple, chalk and cooked champignons, with sumptuous, pleasantly bitter notes of dark fir honey. Contrary to expectation, the palate is merely off dry. It has an intriguing, almost salty quality with inflections of soy-sauce savoriness and immense depth of flavor. Still is sprightly and fresh, the wine has a streak of lemon freshness at its core. Lovely now and mature, it can be enjoyed until at least 2020.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.