Give Grüner the chance to become really ripe and you end up with luscious, rich wines like this. It may be dry, but its texture is so unctuous and soft. Its peach, lychee and kiwi fruit acidity offer the chance for drinking soon, but also promise good aging over the next 2–3 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.