Hints of moss, yeast and freshly zested orange peel edged with pine honey initially suggest a dry wine. It is only on the palate that the richer and sweeter Auslese character comes to bear—again in the guise of dark, aromatic pine honey. The concentrated, deliciously bitter zestiness of the acidity, paired with the aromatically dark and equally bitter edge of the resinous honey provide a wonderful structure. While sweetness peaks up, it never gains the upper hand. This is a tight-rope walker of a wine with immense balance and poise. Glints of vanilla pod, candied peel and white pepper open up, vista after vista. If you are new to Grüner Auslese, this is the one to get you hooked.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.