This begins with aromas of herb-crusted, charred pork belly, graphite and shaved wood. A touch of black fruit lingers in the background of the palate, but the stars are black pepper, licorice, hard herbs, black soot, asphalt and very grippy tannins. Wait at least until 2016 for some mellowing.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.